Wednesday, July 22, 2015

Lazing around in Pokhara, Nepal - July 2015

For a long weekend getaway near Kathmandu, friends and colleagues suggested that Pokhara is THE place to go. So, with my parents visiting Nepal for just 5 days, I decided to take them to Pokhara, located 200 kms to the west of Kathmandu. It’s an approximately 7 hour drive by road with many tourist buses available. Being short on time and road conditions being subject to unpredictable weather, we decided to take the short 25 minute flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara that cost approximately 7000/- in local currency for SAARC residents for the round trip. Apparently, it costs more than double for non-SAARC residents! The domestic airport in Kathmandu is tiny. The one in Pokhara is even tinier! The exit where the baggage claim was located is a single room with chairs and a small counter to collect your luggage. We took Yeti Airlines from Kathmandu to Pokhara. It was a tiny plane - Jetstream 41 - with a two-one seating arrangement. We had turbulence for a very short while but it was a scary moment to be flipping in a tiny plane! The return flight was of Buddha Air. It was slightly bigger with a two-two seating arrangement and no flips due to turbulence.  

There are quite a lot of places to explore in Pokhara. It is most well known for Phewa lake and the spectacular views of the Annapurna range of the Himalaya.  This being the monsoons, the weather was mostly cloudy but we managed to get quite a few glimpses of the mountains.
 
Lakeside: The Lakeside is where most of the hotels are located and is also lined with tourist shops selling an assortment of locally produced goods including yak wool blankets, pashminas, knitted gloves, hats and a wide range of souvenirs.

Phewa lake and Barahi temple: One of the main attractions of Pokhara. The hotels and shops run all along the lake on one side. On the other side is a huge hill atop which sits the World Peace Pagoda. We took an hour long boat ride around sunset on the lake. Since this is the off season, there were very few tourists and we got to enjoy a serene boat ride. The lake was muddy owing to the heavy rains bringing in mud from the hillside and was also infested with Hyacinth. The boat guy informed us that the community often rallies together and organizes hyacinth removal days. Recently they had pulled out quite a few tonnes of hyacinth.   

View of the lake

Hyacinth in the lake

Colorful boats at the lake

We even got a glimpse of Machhapuchhre (Fishtail) peak from the lake!
To the right side is a small peak way at the back... that's Machhapuchhre


Sarangkot provides views of Annapurna range and Machhapuchhre (Fishtail). Early morning at day break we left for Sarangkot located on the eastern side away from Lakeside, Pokhara. From that vanatage point, on clear days you can view the entire Annapurna range. Unfortunately, the day we visited it was not a clear day. We did manage a few glimpses of Annapurna and Machhapuchhre. And got some good chiya (the local Nepali word for tea).

Views of the Annapurna range


Bindhyabasini temple: While descending the mountain we stopped by at Bindhyabasini temple. There’s a steep staircase to climb. And there are a whole lot of worshippers up there!

I managed to snag pictures of a few deserted spots though :P


International Mountain Museum: Later after lunch, we went to the International Mountain Museum. This is a storehouse of knowledge when it comes to mountains. Very fascinating!
  
They have a yeti there!

We also went to Devi’s/Davis Fall where a woman with the last name Davis fell into the Falls… I have no clue why that story makes it a tourist attraction. The Falls disappear into the rocks. On the other side are the Gupteshwor Mahadev caves. I bought tickets to go see the caves but then got too scared to actually venture in… It was really claustrophobic in there!

The Falls

The staircase leading down to the caves...

Early morning the next day while waiting for the car at the hotel, we could glimpse the mountains from the valley itself. The clouds had cleared for a few minutes! I raced up to the terrace to get a good view!


Shanti Stupa/World Peace Pagoda: Then we drove to the World Peace Pagoda on the opposite bank of Phewa lake. The car only takes you up to a certain point up the hill and then you need to walk a long flight of stairs. The road was really bad with a lot of potholes that had become worse with the monsoons. Although we were in a 4WD (Mahindra Scorpio) I was amazed to see smaller cars making the journey up. After the 15-20 minute climb up the stairs, you reach a wide open space filled with flowers. It’s beautifully maintained and has quite a few butterflies! I think this was probably the first time I saw so many different varieties of butterflies in the region. 




The Pagoda lies at the top of another steep flight of stairs and you need to take off your footwear. The ground can get really warm at this time of the year but it was manageable. 



You also get some beautiful mountain and lake views from here.

It was sooo hot that even the dogs needed shady patches!

Begnas Tal: After lunch, we drove to another lake located to the far east of Pokhara. It’s much smaller. But the lake view is beautiful!

And that day the local residents were clearing out hyacinth from the lake. There was so much hyacinth!

It was scorching hot and humid that day so we headed back soon. But not before my Dad feasted on some locally caught fish!

Old Pokhara bazaar: On our way back we went to the main city area. If you have spent time only in Lakeside in Pokhara, then this a must see. This is the heart of the city and it is like any other crowded city in the region :P

Lakeside shopping: Before you go, do not forget to shop to your heart’s content. This being the off season, there weren’t a lot of shoppers. Even the shop keepers were disinterested!  

I don’t think I am a big fan of tourist towns. These places are geared for tourists. Day in and day out the locals encounter wide-eyed city-folks going crazy around them. I wonder if the locals have the means to visit/holiday in tourist places themselves. I felt self-conscious as a tourist. And a part of me felt sad being there… 



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