This Sunday, the plan was to do the 16 kilometers round trip to Namo Buddha starting from Panauti. This is the same direction as Dhulikhel to the east but a bit more southwards.
We started out around 8.30 am from the old bus park in Kathmandu and commandeered all the seats at the back (which was a good thing as I was not looking forward to old men pretending to fall asleep on my shoulder). But before we even got to the bus station, we managed to get a flat tire with the taxi that we caught from home. That was an amusing experience. The taxi driver just hops out and starts changing the tire without even saying a word. And I was still in the car! Apparently, I don’t weigh enough to need to get out of a car to change the tire :-/
The bus ride that cost NPRs 60/- was long and dusty but with beautiful views. And this time, owing to the lack of clouds, I managed to get a full view of the Shiva statue!
Still not clear but the statue is right in the center!
From Banepa, the route turns southwards rather than going straight east toward Dhulikhel. The bus stop has some interesting shops.
Finally at around 10, we reached Panauti and had breakfast (the second one for the day!) at this little place. But beware! the place has really bad toilets!
With that began our hike from Panauti to Namo Buddha located at an elevation of 1750 meters (approx. 5741 feet). We gained about a 1000 feet during our 8 kms ascent, since Panauti is at around 1450 meters (approx. 4741 feet). The initial walk was along a tar road until we reached the settlement at the foothill of Namo Buddha. With the sun scorching down on us and not a sliver of clouds in sight, we were sweating buckets within a few meters of starting from Panauti. The green paddy fields and the towering trees helped cool the way a bit ...
After about 3-4 kms, we finally reached the settlement from where the actual ascent was to begin. With Namo Buddha so far away, a speck in the distance, I was not sure how we were ever going to make it. We also lost our way once and had to retract our steps. Just FYI, there’s a spot where we need to turn left in order to go toward Namo Budhha.
This is a useful landmark to know where to turn. Hopefully, it won’t be taken down anytime soon.
Another landmark is this huge tree out here but then there are quite a lot of trees out there :P
After this we passed through this really narrow, slippery, tree covered patch that brought some welcome respite from the heat. Unfortunately, I didn't get a picture :(
After that it was a steady upward climb for about the rest of the 5 kms. But it was a wide kaccha road that seemed motorable. On our way back we saw this man on a motorbike with three young kids hanging on to him. Didn’t manage to click a picture again! Up and up we went, chugging water along the way. By the last leg, most of us were probably pulling on the last bits of energy. And then we encountered some almost vertical stairways!
But on the other end lay our destination! First was this stupa.
Belatedly, I realized that this was not the top. There was another steep stairway to go until we reached the monastery! There are quite a few sights to take in at the top.
The view from top. We came from way down there!
The monastery (inside)
The monastery (from the other side)
The tiger’s den
The story goes that Buddha gave his body to a hungry tigress who had just given birth to cubs and was, in turn, reborn. Here’s the full story… This is what makes this place one of the holiest pilgrimage sites for Buddhists.
We even got to attend a prayer meeting at the monastery. The music was beautiful. Religious chants have a way of hypnotizing you… The monks were lined up in some sort of a hierarchy with the older ones in front, followed by younger and teenage monks and then the little ones… I felt too sad watching those monks preserving a culture whose very existence is being threatened…
We were then served mango juice! Actually the whole place around the main Buddha statue was filled with juice boxes and food which I think was served after being worshipped (or something…)
Post our mandatory spiritual experience (we were at a holy site after all and we had hiked 8 kms to get here!), we went in search of much needed replenishment.
After gulping down one plate of wai wai noodles and eggs (3/4th for me) and another plate of wai wai sandeko (dry noodles mixed with spices), we set out for our return journey. The sun was still shining bright but it was past 3 pm and we needed to catch a bus back from Panauti. So, we rushed back. The clouds started to gather and it seemed that we might get some rain on our way down. But the rain gods were not going to grace us with their presence that day. Just as well… because a rain drenched hike would have been extremely difficult in this terrain. The locals do the hike to Namo Buddha in slippers and thin soled shoes!
Once we reached the settlement, we managed to hitch a ride on a school bus headed toward Panauti. It was probably illegal and the driver charged us NPRs 25/- each. But it saved us another 3 kms and probably an hour of walking. The sun was now on its way to set and the light was soft and beautiful, giving breathtaking views once again.
At Panauti, we managed to catch a bus back to Dhulikhel, again commandeering the last seats. And finally made it back to Kathmandu around 7 pm. I also rode in my first mini-bus watching the conductor hanging out of the door almost all the way.
All in all, we had hiked about 13-14 kms … but the journey, the view from the top, the monks and their prayers made it worth it…
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