A Month in the Hills of Kottayam, Kerala

31st July, 2009 – 1.38 pm, Pune
A Month in the Hills of Kottayam, Kerala

On the 12th of June, two of my friends from the English Dept, University of Pune and I boarded the CST- Kanyakumari Express (more commonly known as Jayanti Janata to the Mallus) which would take us to Kottayam. The reason we were on our way to Kottayam was that we had applied for the VII Theory/Praxis course which is conducted by the Board of Contemporary Theory, Baroda. When we had applied, we were really enthusiastic about going for the course but as the day of departure got closer, our enthusiasm waned. On the day that we were supposed to leave I kept thinking of excuses about why I should opt out of this. But I didn’t let Annie or Pradnya know about it since I was the one who had been most interested in going for the course in the first place. I couldn’t just back out of this at the last moment. So, I didn’t. We got onto the train. When the train had just left the station I told them about how I was having second thoughts about going. Both at once broke out as to how even they had those same thoughts and we realized that if we had shared these thoughts with each other, we wouldn’t be on this train. So, I guess I was meant to be on that train.

The train starts from CST, Mumbai, then we enter a portion of Karnataka and then Tamil Nadu and finally Kerala. It takes 36 hours and it doesn’t go via Konkan railway which is supposedly the more scenic route. My advice is that if you are travelling to Kerala, book well in advance on a train that goes on the Konkan railway. The trains are cleaner and the scenery is better. But to catch a Konkan railway train you would have to go to Panvel. So that was one of the reasons we were going on this slow and filthy train. The train journey was not very memorable except that I picked up a fight with around 8 men who were bent on usurping our seats for a game of cards. Well, I won the argument and got my seat but had to put up with their nuisance in the adjacent seats for the rest of the journey. Those idiots were pilgrims going to Sabrimala! I couldn’t believe that men of God could be like that.

We reached Kottayam early morning around six. Caught a rickshaw and stuffed our luggage in there. The rickshaw trip was a novel experience. The place we were headed to was on top of a hill. Considering our luggage and the strength of the rickshaw I didn’t think the rickshaw would have been able to pull through. More than once I got the feeling that we would go tumbling backwards. But we made it. The accommodation was in a convent- Apostolic Oblates Spirituality Centre, Manganam. The sisters seemed very nice and our rooms seemed pretty nice too. But soon after we had settled into our rooms we noticed black beetles crawling everywhere. I still have nightmares about them. They are called vand in Malayalam. Pretty harmless creatures but they gross you out when they gather in colonies in all corners of the room.

This retreat was surrounded by rubber plantations and huge tall trees. The retreat itself was very beautiful. The sisters had their own garden in a way filled with all the flowers that I had ever seen in my life. But a lot of those plants were exotic and ornamental. But they had their own vegetable patch too and some fruit trees like chickoo, banana, lichee, guava and some indigenous fruits. Among the birds, Indian Tree Pies were a common sight, plus the Large Green Barbet, White Throated Kingfisher, Caucal, Common Crows, Common Indian Myna. I spotted the Black naped Oriole and Silver beak Munias once or twice. Among the butterflies, Common Rose was extremely common. The others include Glassy Blue Tiger, Chocolate Pansy, Grey Pansy, Lemon Pansy, Grass Yellows, Common Indian Crow, Danaid Eggfly, Great Eggfly. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to get many pictures of these beautiful creatures.

As for the tourist attractions in Kottayam city, there aren’t many. There were a couple of churches we visited namely Cheriapally and Veriapally, which mean small church and big church, respectively in Malayalam. In Cheriapally, the priest gave us a guided tour inside the pulpit which wasn’t all that big but had paintings on the wall dating to the 13th century. At Veriapally was the Persian cross which is a major attraction it seems. Around the cross is an inscription which has not yet been deciphered. The church lies on the banks of the Meenachar river which is mentioned in Arundhati Roy’s God of Small Things. Incidentally, this town is her native place and her mother runs a school a couple of kilometers from the place where we were staying. Apart from these churches there is a Shiva Temple which we could not visit. But I have heard it is beautiful.

One of our Sundays was spent on a house boat in the backwaters of Allepy. Allepy is located about three hours away from Kottayam and we had hired a bus which cost Rs.5000/- To rent an entire house boat for the day costs you Rs.12000/- which includes lunch consisting of sumptuous carimeen (Pearl spot in English). The boat starts from Allepy and takes you to the Vembanad lake from where you get a view of Kumarakom Wildlife sanctuary. The day on the house boat was an amazing experience. The Vembanad lake is huge. Khadakwasla seems like a little baby before it. Sightings on this day include Cormorants, Darter birds, Cattle Egrets, Pond Herons, Purple Heron, and a huge kingfisher which I have not been able to ID. As for the butterflies, the only one I remember spotting is the Southern Birdwing. Along the backwaters we visited another church from the 16th century. Although the present church had been built recently, it was originally a hut established in the 16th century.

The next Sunday we travelled to Cochin in a hired car. It cost us Rs.500/- each for the car. We started out at 5 in the morning and reached Cochin by 7.30, I think. We were there to appear for an exam, so we didn’t end up doing much out there. In the evening, on our way back I spotted a woodpecker. We crossed over the Periyar river which is huge. All the rivers in Kerala leave you gaping at them in disbelief especially after seeing the tiny streams which pass off for rivers in Pune. The highway from Cochin to Kottayam is actually very narrow and winds through the hills. In the early morning, we had missed the scenery but on the way back we could enjoy the scenic beauty.
The Sunday after that we set out for Kumarakom. We caught a bus to Nagampadam bus station which is about half n hour away and from there we got a bus to Kumarakom which charged us Rs.8/- each. The bus transport in Kerala is very efficient and cheap mostly due to the private buses plying on all routes. Even the rickshaw fares are same all over. No one tries to cheat you unlike in Pune. Kumarakom is 14 kms away from Kottayam and it took us more than an hour to get there probably because the bus took a longer route. At Kumarakom, we could either hire a boat which would take us on the Vembanad lake. It would cost us Rs.350/- for a couple of hours. We wanted to walk in the forest so we simply bought entry tickets to the sanctuary which cost Rs.5/- each. The walk through the forest was lovely. Although it was very mucky due to the rains, it was nonetheless enjoyable. You can’t really go much into the forest so our walk was really short. I think we just went about three kilometers inside. Kumarakom had a lot of water birds. We saw roosts of Cormorants and Cattle Egrets. This place supposedly had a huge number of Darters and Spoonbills. Although I didn’t spot any Spoonbills, there were plenty of Darters around. I spotted another big Kingfisher. While we were in the sanctuary it started pouring heavily. But the view of the lake became even more beautiful thanks to the rains. The forest guard told us that we could get a government jetty across the lake to a place called Muhama. Although there was no need for us to go to this place, we really wanted to get on the boat. In order to get back to Kottayam, we would have to go to Allepy from Muhama, then Changanacherry and then Kottayam. Since we had time on our hands we decided to do that and the boat trip just cost Rs.5/- each compared to the 400/- for the houseboat. When we landed at Muhama, the others didn’t really want to continue with this plan. They were soaked and didn’t really like it I guess. So we decided to catch the boat back to Kumarakom and catch a bus back. Anyway, the boat ride was great and cheap. I spotted huge flocks of Cormorants on the lake and a solitary Southern Birdwing.

My last visit to Kerala was in December 2007 and I had felt that the place was as green as green could be but Kerala in the monsoons was another experience altogether. The greenery was everywhere. And it was simply heavenly.

Underwater Magic or Mayhem in Dubai Aquarium and Underwater Zoo

17th May, 2009- 9.45 am, Dubai, UAE


Yesterday, my brother and bhabhi took me to the Dubai Aquarium and Underwater Zoo located in Dubai Mall, the world’s largest mall. This Kingdom sure has a thing for building the largest, biggest, tallest (and sometimes the stupidest things) in the world. Even the aquarium is the world’s largest indoor marine mammal pavilion. And on the way to Dubai Mall I also saw the world’s tallest tower in the making, Burj Dubai.

At first sight, the walkthrough tunnel leaves you staring wide eyed at the sharks that greet you right at the entrance. The tunnel houses five different species of sharks including the huge Sand Tiger Sharks and the comparatively smaller Reef Sharks among others. Never ever did I think that I would be seeing sharks on my visit to Dubai but I must agree that Dubai never fails to surprise me. On my last visit I was mesmerized by the Birds of Prey show which showcased raptors mostly from the European countries. And this time I witnessed marine life that I think was mostly picked up from Australian waters.

Coming back to the sharks, their sheer number at first shocked me and then I began to wonder how these aggressive creatures had been tamed and made to live in such large shoals. As far as I had heard predatory creatures prefer to be solitary. On getting back home, I checked up on the info about this aquarium and sure as hell I found a news excerpt detailing the shark fights that had occurred when the tunnel was being set up with over 40 shark deaths being reported due to shark fights. (Do we have another Jaws in the making? The only difference being its real and not reel.)

The disadvantages apart it is definitely an unforgettable learning experience. I don’t recall how much time I spent inside the tunnel. ( My brother and Bhabhi would remember better since they were the ones waiting outside for me.) I was dumbstruck at the sheer variety and size of the creatures that I saw before me. In addition to the sharks I have already mentioned (and criticized) there were rays (including stings rays and another species which the guide out there said was a combination of a ray from its back and a shark in the front), there were Giant Groupers which were HUGE. The local name of this fish is Hamoor. Its giantness is evident from the fact that it is more dangerous than a shark and is capable of swallowing an entire shark.

I have forgotten the name of the smallest fish in the tunnel. The guide said it’s the cleaner fish. I remember seeing that fish on Discovery or something. These fish act as cleaning stations. All the fish in the tank have to visit these fish if they wish to remain clean. These little fish enter inside the mouth of even the sharks and the sharks just let them do the cleaning up. (Mother nature’s miracles never cease to surprise me!) I remember seeing some moray eels in there as usual peeping out from some crevices in the rocks. There were shoals of a number of fish. The Dubai Aquarium and Underwater zoo has around 30,000 fish (if the guide is to be believed) but I haven’t found a list of any of the species present online. ( Wonder why?)

A word about the guide- The guide I interacted with was called Athman. Didn’t get a chance to really talk with him since he was surrounded with visitors asking him all sorts of (mostly stupid) questions like why don’t the sharks attack the divers or how thick is the glass and wont it break? But he sure did know some things. Most of my facts first came from him and were then verified online. The one thing I would always remember is him showing us how to differentiate between male and female sharks through their genital organs.

That is all about the tunnel. Now we can move to the Underwater zoo which was again a mesmerizing experience. First in line are the Piranhas. I remember seeing Piranhas at the Baroda Aquarium but I also recall how dingy the place was. This on the other hand is very well kept. From the piranhas onwards I saw marine creatures that I had always dreamt of seeing but never actually thought that I would see them so soon. ( But the dream of seeing them in the wild still remains close to my heart…one day…) Here’s a checklist-
Otters
Water rats
Arowanas
Turtles
Archerfish
Lungfish
Tiger fish
American Paddlefish
Motoro Ray
Poison Dart Frog
Stonefish
Soapfish
Lionfish
Clown Anemone fish
Sea Anemone
Sea Cucumber
Star fish
Spiny Lobster
Sea Urchin
Jelly fish
Bat fish
Domino
Blue Tang, Yellow Tang
Green Chromis
Clown Trigger
Giant Guitarfish
Bat Ray
Stingray
Thornback Ray
Leopard Ray
Eagle Ray
Blue Spotted Stingray
Harbour Seal
Spotted Seahorse
Thorny Seahorse
Flashlight Fish
Pine Cone Fish
Chambered Nautilus
Sea Dragons
Moray Eel
Garden Eel
Humboldt Penguin

One of the guides picked up the Spiny Lobster for me to touch. Seals and penguins were another surprise. There I was staring at about a dozen penguins in front of me. It was like stepping into a show that I was watching on Animal Planet. Life never should cease to surprise you and my visit to Dubai has definitely had its share of surprises already.

I began by talking about the drawbacks of housing so many sharks in the tunnel. I forgot to mention that this is the world’s single largest school of sharks. Not many people would get to see these creatures up close and personal but in the race to be the biggest in everything, it seems the authorities are forgetting that these creatures are of flesh and blood just like us. By bringing these creatures closer to people, who would otherwise remain ignorant of them, the authorities have definitely done a great service to mankind but they should combine this with certain educational activities not just for children but for adults as well.

Duke's Nose

I know this Post comes almost a year late but I forgot to post it and din't want to waste it. Hope to be less forgetful next time.

Trek to Duke’s Nose on 27th July, 2008

Finally, the rains staged a come back. And with the arrival of the rains, the trekking season for the monsoon has also begun. My first trek of the season was to Duke’s Nose. I know that most of the regular trekkers would say that this is a relatively easier trek. And I would agree with that.

It has been three years since I began trekking but somehow I had never gotten the opportunity to trek to Duke’s nose. So, when I found out that Yuvashakti was organizing its annual trek to this place, I readily agreed.

We were asked to meet at 5 am at Shivajinagar station. We caught Sinhagad express at 6:15 am and got down at Khandala around 7:30 am. From there we walked along the tracks, passed a pipeline and trekked up a little till we reached a plateau. We were served a soggy breakfast since the rains had been pouring down on us.

I had expected that there would be a lot of people but when I saw 400 people, it truly exceeded my expectations. For me, treks are usually a quiet affair where I keep to myself and simply take in the beauty of nature. Silence was something that I definitely did not get on the trek. I made it a point to stay ahead in the massive crowd. It was not easy to do so but after a lot of jostling, I finally managed to squeeze myself ahead to be among the first 20 people. And I am so glad that I had the stamina to keep up with them because I was among the first few people to reach the top. We reached the top at around 10: 30 am. Although I merely got around a quarter of an hour of silence before the noisy crowd swarmed the top, those few minutes were beautiful.

A sad thing that I noticed on the trek was the utter disregard for nature that my fellow trekkers had. I had expected an organization like Yuvashakti to be very strict about littering on treks. Unfortunately, I was proved wrong. I saw people throwing off plastic wrappers without giving it a second thought. The top has a few sources of drinking water which were quickly soiled by the trekkers by washing their hands and feet in the water.

At around 11:15 am we began our trek back. We did not go by the same route. Instead we got down from the Lonavla side. This was a much easier route. And I was down in less that half an hour.

juhi

Pigeon Snatching

1st May, 2009 - 2:37 am
Pigeon Snatching

In mid March, I travelled to Kolkata. I was gone for a week and my house was locked up almost the whole week except for the occasional fish feeding sessions. The balcony was untouched for a week. And I think it was for that reason that some pigeons assumed that it was deserted. So, when I come back I find that a pair of pigeons is constantly hanging out in my balcony. Not just hanging out, but playfully enjoying themselves out there. Sexual connotations intended. The constant rumbling noises all afternoon often interrupted my rare noon siesta. I wasn’t too worried because each time I checked to see if there was any sign of an upcoming nest. Since there wasn’t a hint of any, I let them use my balcony for their romantic liaisons.
Sometimes, when I heard no sound, I would just walk out into the balcony only to find one solitary pigeon among the pots who would dash out the moment I stepped in. I didn’t give a thought to what it(probably she) was doing in my pots. I kept a constant vigil for sticks and dry grass and the rest of the stuff needed for a nest. But what did I know, humans don’t build thatched huts anymore you know. At least not the ones in the cities. And so one fine morning, a few weeks later, I walk into my balcony to see one little egg sitting prim and proper in a vacant pot. It’s not just humans who change their way of life. Good for the pigeon that my Mom wasn’t around or that pot wouldn’t have been empty. (she would definitely have planted something there) Anyway, as fate would have it, the pot had only mud and that seemed enough for the pigeon to lay. But they were definitely a lazy pair, what would you call birds who don’t even build nests to lay!!!
So, the pot remained with the one egg and the pair would incubate it all day. Well I was looking forward to the hatching day. But there was another pleasant surprise in store because mama pigeon had one more egg to lay. (how could I forget my Dad telling me as a kid that pigeons lay in pairs!) So, the pair of pigeons was happy with a pair of eggs. Mama pigeon would sit on it all day, Papa pigeon would keep vigil on the terrace of the opposite building.
About three weeks back, that would be the second week of April I guess, I woke up to find two little chicks in the pot and Mama pigeon nursing them (I am assuming it was Mama). Well, well, well, who would have imagined. Eggs laid in a pot. No nest and in a month we have little chicks out of it. Good going I believe. They seemed to be growing fast. I don’t know how I resisted the urge to go near them, to touch them. But like all things in life, it was too good to be true. Yesterday when I came home in the afternoon, I felt something wrong when I stood there in my living room. I got a strong smell of one particular plant, ajwaine, from my balcony. It wouldn’t smell unless someone had messed with it. I ran to the balcony and sure as hell, the balcony had witnessed some roughing up. There was one chick in the pot and no sign of the pigeon parents.
What happened? What happened? I kept asking. I hadn’t gone near them. The parents wouldn’t just pick up and leave one chick behind. They aren’t human you know. Well it turns out they didn’t just leave. Mama pigeon came back and sat with her one chick. In the evening I heard a crow in the balcony. I went to check it out and there it was sitting on the railing. And the entire thing dawned on me. The other chick was dead, I guess. Gone. A victim of fate. Fate brought them to me and then snatched them back. Tit for tat. So each time the crow came I shooed it away. How long was I going to do that? Well at least till sunset that day. Gave mama pigeon my condolences and wished her a good night. Got up early the next day (had a paper to study for). The first thing I did was to check them out. But then there was no them. The pot was empty. All gone. Away. Hoped to see the chicks fly away one day. But they did go away alright. Just not the way I imagined it. This time it dint seem like there had been a tussle. But then you never know. I hope I never know.
juhi

Khor Kalba, UAE Trip

Yesterday being a holiday, the entire family set out for Khor Kalba around noon. Its located to the north of UAE in Fujairah. It is near the border between Oman and UAE. On our way, we stopped along the main road to have lunch. We lunched in the sand in the middle of the desert along with a lot of huge red ants. Got some nice pics of another insect too. Will upload photos when I figure out how to. Saw an Indian Roller on the way and lots of camels.

Khor Kalba has some beautiful mangroves. Since it was a family outing, I didn't get to venture out much on my own. In spite of that I got see a number of birds. Although I have been able to ID merely a few of them. Saw a number of Terns and Gulls along the shore. We stopped at some place near the mangroves on the inside. There were a lot of crabs out there. There was a nice spot for swimming. But we stopped at the fishing area since my brother in law wanted to fish. He even caught a baby Sherry. After that he didn't have any luck. But my sister wanted to fish more. So she continued but with no luck.

All this while I enjoyed with my nephew. And after sometime I sneaked out with my Mom in the search of something better. Luckily I found a lone White Collared Kingfisher, endemic to the area. At least I think it was that. Got a pic too, but not very good since my Dad scared him away. (Family outings can be very frustrating in such cases!!!) On my way back from this short walk, Mom and I spotted a Hoopoe Lark. Got a very bad pic of that too. Saw a couple of Sand Plovers.

The other side of the mangrove looked really dense. Found one egret catching fish. Heard a lot of bird calls. Saw a lot of fish jumping in the water too. After having dinner in the dark, we started on our way back home through Masafi. All in all, it was a good trip. Not just due to the things I saw but also because it was the first time in three years, I think, that the entire family including my sis had gone out together for a trip.